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A Box Tick Like No Other

Yesterday morning, Sam Goodchild led the way. A few hours later, Elodie Bonafous crossed the Arctic Circle in turn, soon followed by Violette Dorange and Ambrogio Beccaria later in the evening, with Francesca Clapcich crossing during the night. This Friday morning, five competitors have now sailed beyond 66° North as part of the Vendée Arctique – Les Sables d’Olonne. Within the next few hours, Nicolas d'Estais and Arnaud Boissières should also reach these northern latitudes. A collective first for the fleet and a rare milestone in any sailor’s career. Because some passages matter more than others. A first crossing of the Equator. A first rounding of Cape Horn. The discovery of the Roaring Forties or the Furious Fifties. The Arctic Circle belongs in that category: an invisible line on a chart whose significance extends far beyond geography. A marker that says something about the journey already travelled.

Nico d'Estais à bord de Café Joyeux
© Nico d'Estais

Another Box Ticked on the Chart of a Lifetime

Aboard Allagrande Mapei, Ambrogio Beccaria made no attempt to hide his satisfaction. “We’ve done something important. We’ve sailed really far north, into places you don’t visit every day, and today we can finally say: we’ve done it.” The Italian even celebrated the occasion in his own way—with a risotto. A suitably Italian tribute to mark a passage he is not certain he will experience many times in his career. The feeling was much the same for Elodie Bonafous. “There’s inevitably a sense of pride. We receive a lot of messages reminding us of the commitment this race demands, and that helps you realise what we’re actually doing. This latitude isn’t something you cross every day. It’s done. It’s ticked off. And it’s certainly not one of the more ordinary boxes in this profession.” There has been little time to dwell on the emotions, however. Barely had the Arctic Circle been crossed before attention returned to the race. More manoeuvres. More routing decisions. And preparation for the long descent back towards Les Sables d’Olonne.

The Foils Are Singing Again

For several hours now, the leaders have been charging south at high speed off the coast of Iceland. The foils have begun singing once more and the speedometers are climbing again. “The reaching conditions are really enjoyable,” explained Elodie Bonafous shortly after beginning her descent towards the south. I’ve managed to find the right settings and get some proper rest. That really lifts the spirits.” The skipper of Association Petits Princes – Quéguiner knew, however, that this pleasant interlude might be short-lived. “I’m a little wary of the accelerations as we approach Iceland. With the cold air flowing down from the north, I have a feeling it could be stronger than the forecasts suggest.” Because beyond the strategic decisions, the High North imposes its own challenges. I’m trying to maintain a bit of organisation with my clothing so I can preserve at least a minimum level of comfort,” joked the sailor from Finistère. An experience from which she is already drawing lessons for the future. “Note to self for the Vendée Globe: leave with several sleeping bags!” The leading competitors are indeed entering a new weather phase. Following this fast passage off Iceland, several transition zones are expected to slow the fleet once again before stronger winds arrive. Sam Goodchild (MACIF Santé Prévoyance) will be the first to encounter the new system, with robust conditions forecast on the route towards Ireland and seas potentially reaching four metres. Behind him, differences in positioning may yet create significant variations in how each skipper negotiates these next obstacles. The Arctic Circle is now astern. The road back to Vendée remains full of challenges.

11th Hour Racing
© Francesca Clapcich 11th Hour Racing

Fifty Shades of Grey

While the leaders head south once more, Nicolas d’Estais, Arnaud Boissières and Manu Cousin (Coup de Pouce) continue their climb towards the High North. Aboard Café Joyeux, morale is high. The decision taken several days ago to round the low-pressure system to the east is gradually beginning to pay off. The skipper happily compares the route to a giant fairground ride circling around the weather system. While the leading boats crossed the Arctic Circle around 8° West, Nicolas d’Estais is expected to cross near 5° West after a more easterly ascent than his rivals. 


Morale is fantastic. I’m genuinely having a great time on my little boat. The atmosphere, however, has changed dramatically. The air is carrying 100% humidity. It’s a cold that penetrates right into your bones. Everything is grey: the water, the sky, the clouds. It’s fifty shades of grey... but the family-friendly version!

Nico D'Estais
Café Joyeux

The damp cold also brings back memories from his student days. “It reminds me of my worst autumn training sessions with the university sailing team in England. Those November outings on the east coast of England. That cold that gets into everything and eventually freezes your fingers.” Further west, Arnaud Boissières continues to deal with fickle winds that have significantly slowed his progress over recent hours. “I ended up twice in areas with very little wind. There probably weren’t many alternative options available, but it’s inevitably a bit frustrating.” The APRIL Marine skipper is also discovering an increasingly northern atmosphere. “All of a sudden, everything became heavily overcast. You can’t see very much. It’s really cool now. Not freezing, but definitely the sort of cold you have to manage.” For both sailors, the Arctic Circle is now only a matter of hours away. “It’s certainly a voyage of initiation. But we’ll say it’s done when it’s actually done. For now, there’s still a fair distance to go.” Even before crossing 66° North, both men already seem immersed in what makes the High North so distinctive: A cold that clings to the body. And the strange sensation of moving through a landscape unlike any other.


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